We've all seen it — and maybe even had it: hair that's so dark and inky that it looks almost blue, doesn't reflect light, and doesn't really even look like hair. Colorists refer to this as the "shoe polish" effect. "It can look opaque, which can showcase grays and regrowth," says Licari. "It will also zap life and color from your face." Licari recommends requesting a single process and highlights that bring your natural hair color one shade lighter. "This will add dimension, disguise the grays, and still flatter your complexion," he says. If you're using an at-home hair-color kit, err on the lighter side.
"Buy a box that's one shade lighter than the color you desire," says Zand. "Women coloring their own hair tend to leave the color on for too long, and it can get really dark. In order to fix that, you'll have to go to a professional to have them strip the color out with bleach," she says. If you're set on dark hair, stay in the medium-to-dark chestnut range like Demi Moore, recommends Nikki Ferrara, a colorist at the Marie Robinson salon in New York City.